Friday 4 November 2011

Thailand: Floating Markets

Thailand has a number of floating markets, that vary in size and 'authenticity'. The markets listed here are all best seen in the early morning and are only open on weekends, unless noted otherwise.

Damneon Saduak is the best known and most visited of them all, and the photos of Damneon Saduak are the iconic images you've probably seen in travel brochures and ad campaigns. While most visitors really enjoy the experience, some comment that it is purely a tourist attraction and no longer very authentic. There are public buses both air and non air-conditioned leaving from the Southern Bus Terminal for Damnoen Saduak every 40 minutes beginning at 6am. Go early if you want to enjoy the atmosphere before masses of tourists arrive on bus tours. Arriving at Damnoen Saduak, you can either walk on the passage along the canal on the right hand side or take a boat at the pier nearby.

Amphawa is regarded by many as a much more 'authentic' floating market, and although not really on the main tourist track, it is becoming increasingly popular. Amphawa is one of the few afternoon/evening floating markets. The local area has many traditional Thai style houses, and there are a number of homestays too. Open midday to about 8pm Friday, Saturday and Sunday only, but best after 4pm. Travelling time from central Bangkok is about an hour and a half. Buses run from the Southern Bus Terminal to Samut Songkram town (aka Maeklong), then take a local songthaew to Amphawa for only 8 baht. Alternatively, hire a taxi in Bangkok for the day, but you must negotiate a price. Or take a van from Victory Monument to Maeklong, and then that 8 baht local songthaew.

Taling Chan, in an outer Bangkok suburb, is one of the very few floating markets within the city limits, but is small and quiet compared with Amphawa and Damneon Saduak. Open only on Sunday mornings, it's located close to the Taling Chan District Office. Take a taxi, or bus number 79 from outside Central World.

Sai Nai Floating Market is one of two floating markets in Nonthaburi province just to the north of Bangkok. It's located at Sai Yai Temple in the very small country town of Sai No. I'ts busy, noisy and fun with not a western face in sight. Boats and floating stalls in the canal next to the temple sell locally produced food and other goods while a biggish market extends through the temple grounds selling cheap food, clothes and other daily needs. I'ts well worth the effort of getting there. Sai Noi is accessible from the Outer Ring Road (Kanchanapisek Road) from where it's signposted. You'd need to arrange your own transport, such as a taxi, or use a guide, to get there. Travelling time from the center of Bangkok would be about 1 hour 20 minutes or less. From 2013 the Purple line train will get you fairly close.

Nonthaburi's second floating market is the Khu Wiang Floating Market in Bang Kruai district, opens very early at weekends from 4am and all over by about 10-11am. It's similar in concept to Sai Noi. To get there you can hire a long-tailed boat from one of Bangkok's city center piers to travel through Klong Bangkok Noi & Khlong Om to get there; take an express boat (from 6am) to PIboonsongkram 2 pier and cross the river and then either take a taxi or hire a boat to complete the journey.

Bang Nam Pheung Floating Market is located on the fringes of Bangkok in Phra Pradaeng District, Samut Prakarn province.It's open at weekends from 8am until 2pm, although early is better than later. It's relatively new but has few foreign visitors. Both boats and bikes (for a canal side tour) are available for hire at modest charges. To get there take take air-conditioned bus No. 138 (Chatuchak – Phra Pradaeng), Number 140 (Victory Monument – Suk Sawat Express Way), Number 506 (Pak Kret – Phra Pradaeng), or ordinary bus Number 82 (Sanam Luang – Phra Pradaeng).

Four Regions Floating Market in Pattaya was created as a tourist attraction in 2008, and has been quite well developed. The market is divided into 4 separate parts representing each region of Thailand (North, Central, North-Eastern, and South) offering a blend of differing traditions.There are about 80 boats to ferry tourists around the compound, linked by a network of canals and wooden bridges. The boat trip is designed to expose tourists to the richness of the surrounding Thai architectural and cultural riverside living. One can sample freshly cooked authentic Thai dishes from the water vendors. Its located on Sukhumvit Road between Pattaya and Bang Saray, take the red Beach Bus from various stops in Pattaya, to a stop right outside the market.

A new addition is the recently opened Ayutthya Floating Market aimed squarely at tourists, most of which are Thai. From the entrance, framed by a brick wall built to resemble the old city wall, you cross a wooden bridge and go directly to the floating market or take a shuttle boat (20 baht per trip) to tour the lake and get an overview before exploring on foot. There are about 300 shops in all, built on stilts in the water and those run by vendors plying their goods on paddle boats and sellers in a flea-market zone. Here goods are put on tables or on the floor in imitation of an up-country market. The products are mainly food, snacks and clothes. There are also services including traditional Thai massage and spa and a fish spa. Vendors sell food and drinks from wooden boats. They offer various local delicacies such as som tam, pad thai, moo sarong and khanom bueng. The dining area in this zone is a big floating platform where you sit on a mat and put your plates on a small table. The food zone is connected to other shopping areas via wooden bridges and also linked to a bigger performance area where classical Thai dances are performed regularly, including likae (musical folk drama), khon (masked drama) and the Klong Yao Drum dance. To get there you can take a passenger van from Victory Monument to Ayuddhya van center, from where take a songtaew. Buses run hourly from Morchit Mai bus station in northern Bangkok to Ayuddhya bus terminal, from where take a tuktuk or songtaew

Nakhon Pathom, famous for its huge Chedi, is also home to the Lumphaya Floating Market on the Tha Cheen river at Wat Lumphaya. Open from 6am to 3pm (again, early is better than later), farmers and other traders sell food, handicrafts and other products from boats and waterside stalls. Boat cruises are also available - reserve your seat in advance, buy some food and drink and take it on board! Vans run a regular service to the market from the Kungluang restaurant near Central Pinklao, or take a bus to Nakhon Pathom or Nakhon Chaisi and then a songtaew.

TOUR THAILAND

Thailand: A Guide to proper behaviour
A basic guide to proper behaviour and social interaction in Thailand
Thai people put a heavy emphasis on good social manners and politeness so it will help if you understand some of their customs, beliefs and values. Also, should you encounter a problem, remember a gentle smile, speaking softly and exercising patience will work things out in your favour more often than a scowl or raised voice will. When entering a Thai home, or temple, it is customary to remove your shoes. This is not simply a religious custom but has practical cleanliness benefits too. Also, never point your feet at anyone, use it to indicate anything or purposely touch another person with them. Don't be surprised if smaller business establishments also pratice this custom. Some homes, businesses and temples will provide indoor slippers for use only inside their buildings. If offered, you will customarilly see them just outside the main entrance way. Walking in bare feet, socks/footies or indoor provided slippers is acceptable in home, business and temple situations. The King and all the Royal Family both past and present are held in extremely high regard by all Thai people and due respect is required. This also applies to money, or any object bearing the King’s image. Above all, do NOT put your foot on money. Remember that Thailand has and does actively prosecute her Lèse majesté laws. It is a criminal offense to commit any act - verbal, physical or written, that shows insolent or disrespectful behaviour toward any member of the Royal family.

Any insult to the Buddhist religion or Buddha icons or images can carry heavy penalties. Again, respect must be shown at all times and, when visiting temples, appropriate clothing must be worn. When entering a temple you are requested to dress appropriately. Singlets and shorts are not acceptable. Also touching any part of a monk, or his robes, is strictly taboo. Do not climb or recline on religious statues.
A ‘wai’ is when hands are put in front of the face as a gesture of greeting or respect. It has many meanings and visitors are advised only to reply to a ‘wai’ rather than ‘lead the way’. It is never proper to ‘wai’ to servants or children, although it may be appropriate to ‘return’ a wai from a monk .
Always practice caution with your cash and valuables. Such things as passports and credit cards should not be carried externally, and all leading hotels provide secure in-room safes or safety boxes at reception. Shoulder bags and handbags may be especially vulnerable.
It is NOT advisable to drink tap water or brush teeth with it. Bottled water is cheap and readily available. Most all restaurants cook and serve with properly treated water. If you are unsure, ask your server.

If traveling in a taxi always insist that the meter to be used. Use of the meter is obligatory for all taxi trips within the metro Bangkok area. If the driver even tries to bargain for a flat rate - get out and flag down another cab. During the trip, do not nervously ask how much it's going to cost. Your acceptance of any amount the driver mentions could be construed as agreement to a flat rate. Fares for any trip to areas outside of the metro area are negotiable. In this case the fare should be negotiated before you leave, but NOT paid until you arrive safely at your destination. Taxis have a red illumination inside the passenger side of the windscreen, which indicates "available." If you decide to use a tuk tuk, it is usual to negotiate the fare before you begin your journey and then settle upon your safe arrival.

When beckoning or calling waiters and taxis, or anyone else, do so by waving palm facing down -like patting a dogs head. Never clap, snap your fingers, or whistle. These actions and noises are meant to call or summon dogs and animals, not people.

Do not accept offers of food, drink, or free trips from strangers. If a friendly stranger (Thai or not) approaches you for any reason, engage them with a fair amount of caution and don't agree to go anywhere with them or with the friendly tuk tuk driver they have waiting close by.

Learn how to use the toilets properly! Thai plumbing is not designed to cope with toilet paper - the sewage pipes are thinner than in the west and can become blocked easily. Many westerners remain fixed in their own wiping paradigm: many put disgusting smelly toilet paper in the trash; worse, some try to flush the paper and end up blocking the toilets.

The toilets are designed for you to use the spray nozzle (or scoop) to throughly rinse your nether regions with water while you scrub with the left hand. You then need to wash your hands thoroughly - and you will be reminded why you should favor the right hand over the left when handing people stuff.

The paper is just there for you to dry yourself. Thus what goes into the trash isn't anywhere near as disgusting as people think, and it hardly smells at all.

This method seems gross at first to some people, but you get used to it very quickly - and indeed when westerners get home and have to revert to the western method, it can feel like they're not doing as thorough a job as you were in south-east Asia.

Now that you have a little extra knowledge, you will be quite safe and surely not offend any Thais while you are vacationing in Thailand.
Happy travels.